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Author Topic: Bondage 101, lesson 1, how to tie knots  (Read 154295 times)
RopeFiend
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« Reply #30 on: January 30, 2009, 09:26:04 PM »

Simple single-limb rope cuff courtesy of TwistedMonk.com

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/kD2dTqpMtYE&rel=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/kD2dTqpMtYE&rel=1</a>

TwistedMonk's YouTube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/twistedmonkcom



There's a higher quality version of the single-limb rope cuff at TwistedMonk:
http://www.twistedmonk.com/video.htm (10 great videos in better resolution than on YouTube)



His YouTube channel has quite a few videos that aren't on the website, like this one featuring Midoriemot_101010.gif

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/K5vgUCpondE&rel=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/K5vgUCpondE&rel=1</a>

        quote: "Yoga... yoga and bondage, good idea." Grin

If you have any of the various 'video downloader' plug-ins for your browser, you can save the FLV (Flash Video) files locally, either from YouTube or the better ones direct from TwistedMonk.  I'd strongly recommend saving a local copy after the great YouTube purge of the Two Knotty Boys videos last year.  Even though YouTube has an 'adult' classification, they'll still delete videos if enough fucking Puritans complain.  Fully clothed and not even a bit 'controversial', YouTube allowed a great set of videos to be deleted, and I doubt it's over with.


EDIT, OCT 2009:  Well, the FUCKING PURITANS at YouTube have deleted ALL of Twisted Monk's videos and suspended his account.  As with the Two Knotty Boys, all his videos were with fully clothed subjects, and sex wasn't mentioned.

I'm pretty sure I saved down the majority of the videos he had posted there.
« Last Edit: October 28, 2009, 02:22:36 AM by RopeFiend » Logged

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« Reply #31 on: February 13, 2009, 01:43:48 PM »

Remember me mentioning earlier that all you need for bondage is a few simple knots and a good cuff?  Here's one of my favorite cuff ties:

The real Foole's Cuff presented by the famous Philip the Foole is a attachment cuff for a winch that spreads the weight evenly and does not tighten up.  Useful for attaching towing gear or blocks to the winches (or wenches, as the case may be!)



<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/YXbvkRIg6WI&rel=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/YXbvkRIg6WI&rel=1</a>

Thanks to Nawa Taipan for the video, http://www.youtube.com/user/nawataipan for his other tutorial videos.


If you only ever buy ONE beginner's book of general knots, I'll go along with the other Perverts and recommend the Expanded Edition of the 'Handbook of Knots' by Des Pawson, 176 pages, ISBN 0756603749.  List price is $17 but you can get it for $10 or less if you shop around on places like Half.com or AbeBooks.  I think I saw a copy for around $7USD (equivalent) in England.

It not only covers the simple few knots that we all use, it also has a section on basic rope care and whipping or securing the ends of the rope.  And the Portugese Bowline in it can be turned into a nice cuff, with an extra turn or three to spread out the load.




 
« Last Edit: February 16, 2009, 01:08:39 PM by RopeFiend » Logged

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« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2009, 02:25:12 PM »

While I'm mentioning bondage books, I should probably briefly cover "Das Bondage-Handbuch" by Matthias Grimme.  It's one of the two popular books in Germany, roughly equivalent to Jay Wiseman's "Erotic Bondage Handbook" in that it covers all manners of bondage, not just ropes.  The photos are B&W, grainy and not very good, and there aren't always enough photos to adequately show you how to tie their examples so my first recommendation for our Deutsch friends would be the "Bondage made in Japan" book I'd mentioned on page 2 of this thread.  As far as the actual rope bondage goes, it has both Japanese and European styles (more concentrated on Japanese) and includes some good basic rope handling tips like how to bundle your ropes up.  I'd probably pass on this one unless you speak Deutsch or want to round out your collection.  Wink

"Das Bondage-Handbuch: Anleitung zum erotischen Fesseln" von Matthias T. J. Grimme
Charon | 1999 | ISBN: 3931406164 | 240 pages

http://www.amazon.de/Das-Bondage-Handbuch-Anleitung-erotischen-Fesseln/dp/3931406164/  EUR 21,50



Domantik Magazin
„Wer die Kunst erotischer Fesselung erlernen möchte, ohne gleich einen Kurs zu besuchen, findet mit diesem Werk eine solide Anleitung“

BDSM-Berlin.de - Bernd
Die "richtige" Bondage-Handhabung läßt sich natürlich nur in der Praxis erlernen. Diejenigen unter euch, die sich ohne weitere Vorkenntnisse an erotischen Fesselungen versucht haben und nachfolgend mit unbeabsichtigten Nebenwirkungen (unlösbare Knoten, tagelange Rötungen der Haut, Durchblutungsstörungen usw.) konfrontiert wurden, werden aber sicherlich zustimmen, dass es durchaus hilfreich gewesen wäre, sich vorher ein wenig mit der Materie auseinander zu setzen. Matthias Grimme hat dies im "Bondage-Handbuch" in gewohnt informativer Weise getan und jede Menge Hinweise und Tipps zum sicheren Umgang mit den verschiedenen Fessel-Utensilien und -Praktiken zusammengetragen. Eine kleine Knotenkunde und gut 20 verschiedene bebilderte Schritt-für-Schritt-Fesselanleitungen runden das Buch ab. Zur Lektüre und Nachahmung empfohlen!

 
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« Reply #33 on: February 19, 2009, 03:38:41 PM »

I finally got my copy of 'Two Knotty Boys Back on the Ropes' that I pre-ordered back at Christmas.  Cool!  emot_dancing.gif

Dan and J. D. have their own style of bondage: erotic macrame!  It's little like the Japanese shibari style, although they borrow elements from everywhere.  This one is a companion to their other book, 'Two Knotty Boys Showing You the Ropes'.  The earlier book was all B&W photos, this is in full color with photography by Ken Markus.  The photography is excellent, of course.

This book (like their earlier one) also has a wealth of info for the beginner, repeating many of the same basic knots and techniques.  There's a bunch of NEW ties too, so any true Pervert will want both books.  There are more photos in this one, breaking each tie down step-by-step.  I think they've done a fantastic job trading off number of photos versus photo size, which is always a problem in books like this.

The example pages below from Amazon don't do the book justice... it's WAY better quality than you can see in these 600x820 pixel low-contrast scans.

I'll happily add this one to my 'if you're only gonna buy ONE bondage book, it's recommended' list.  emot_letsdoit.gif




$14.96 USD at Amazon,  ISBN 1931160694   80 pages, paperback, 10.7x8.3 inches
http://www.amazon.com/Two-Knotty-Boys-Back-Ropes/dp/1931160694

Here's the 'editorial review':

Tying down a load of lumber is one thing; tying up your partner is another thing altogether.  In this book, famed bondage riggers the Two Knotty Boys show readers how to tie basic knots and use them in sensual bondage techniques.  With the help of renowned photographer Ken Marcus, the Boys use more than 750 full-color photos to illustrate the techniques for turning rope into rope bondage.  Easy-to-follow captions and clear, step-by-step images allow readers to learn at their own pace, review entire techniques at a glance, or lay the book flat on a bed or table and follow along as they subdue their partner.  Written in a playful style that makes rope bondage safe and approachable, and covering a wide range of techniques from basic ties to decorative ropework pieces, Two Knotty Boys Back on the Ropes is the perfect bedside companion for curious newcomers and serious players alike.
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« Reply #34 on: February 19, 2009, 09:25:18 PM »

Hmm I'm starting to think that the two 50' lengths of rope that I bought will not be enough! Those videos you have on here showing the single limb cuff look fantastic. Wow that sling looks great too.  NOW I just need some privacy to practice them!  Thanks  ;Dfor adding all of these.
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« Reply #35 on: February 19, 2009, 10:06:03 PM »

Midori (one of my absolute FAVORITE teachers) recommends:

   * (2) 15ft lengths of 6mm rope
   * (3) 30ft length of 6mm rope
   * (4) 10ft lengths of 6mm rope
   * (1) EMT safety shears

The four shorter pieces are ideal for single-limb ties to the bedpost.  Grin  The longer pieces are for various harnesses, multi-limb ties or full-body ties.

That's for her 'expanded beginner's kit'.  If you're ANYWHERE near San Francisco, I'd unreservedly recommend her 'Rope Dojo'.  She travels to a lot of the local 'kink carnivals', so you might see her near you if you're not on the Left Coast.

She uses almost exclusively hemp or jute for the Japanese 'shibari' style.  Americans and Europeans use whatever, with a strong preference for colored fully-braided multi filament polypropylene (MFP), 6mm to 8mm in diameter.

Here's what I usually have in my toy bag, about 1/3 or 1/4 of all my rope:



Here's a post from a few years ago I saved by TheHungryTiger at bondage.com (before their forums went to shit):

MULTI FILAMENT POLYPROPYLENE (MFP)

Positives: I cant say enough good things about this rope! Its cheap, has great texture against the skin, comes in many designer colors, is easy to maintain, is lightweight meaning you can carry more in your toybag, and to top it all off it is waterproof making cleanup a snap. Knots seldom jam and it has very nice handling properties.

Negatives: This rope degrades quickly when exposed to ultraviolet light. But since the reasons perverts like us use rope indoors most of the time, this is not really an issue. It does stretch so it might not be a top choice for suspension. Also, it can sometimes be tough to get knots to hold as it is somewhat slick. And like any synthetic rope, there is no smell.

Availability: This is not normally found in hardware stores, nor in craft and hobby shops. A good kink-friendly online retailer is Rainbow rope and they have it in a multitude of designer colors.

MONO FILAMENT POLYPROPYLENE

Positives: There is one use for this that makes it stand out as a choice for bondage rope. If you can get it colored light brown in bulk twist construction it will look for all the world like it is manila. But it will be twice as strong and lighter by a third. It is as easy to maintain and clean as multi filament polypropylene and is about the same cost. It holds knots very well without jamming.

Negatives: You will need to prep and condition this rope a lot before it has been broken in enough to use for erotic play. It stretches quite a bit making it of limited use for suspension. It also has 'memory' meaning that if you leave it tied into a coil for a long time between uses, when you untie it the rope will tend to stay in the shape of the coil you had it in. Like multi filament polypropylene it degrades in direct sunlight and has no smell.

Availability: The larger hardware stores may have this in its raw unfinished state. A kink friendly shop that sells this in its finished conditioned state is Kinky Ropes

NYLON

Positives: The texture of this rope is rather soft and pleasant, but it still has enough surface tooth that it holds knots well. It has very easy handling properties as well. Its main advantage is in its maintenance properties. The durability of this rope is second to none and it cleaned or even sanitized with ease. It is also one of the less expensive kinds of rope.

Negatives: This rope stretches. A lot! In some cases it can stretch up to 20 percent. You can forget about using it for suspension and even escapology scenes would suffer from a little. It can be a little tricky coming up with an adequate method to keep the ends from fraying. It has no smell.

Availability: It's everywhere! It's everywhere! If you're in luck, the local hardware store will have 100 foot spools of this stuff for $20. Sort through the bin until you come across a package that has some flex/squish to it.

HEMP

Positives: Smell! People just go totally ga-ga over the smell of this rope. As years of use on sailing ships will attest, this rope holds up great to water so any method of cleaning it works well. It handles well and holds knots extremely well. The texture, though not super-soft, is very pleasurable. There is nearly no stretch to it at all

Negatives: The cost of this rope makes it an upper-end item. The fibers used to construct it are against the law to grow in the united states and that drives the cost up a lot. In addition, the amount of maintenance needed to keep this rope in good working order puts it outside the range of all but the most dedicated rope-geek.

Availability: Not in hardware stores. Some of the better stocked craft and hobby shops might carry this. An excellent kink-friendly supplier of this is twisted monk

MANILA

Positives: About the only good thing I can say about this rope is that it is easy to get in thick diameters. It does hold knots well and handles ok.

Negatives: This requires an excessive amount of conditioning before it can be used for bondage. Straight out of the package it will leave splinters in the skin. And no matter what you do, you will never be able to get the oily/gasoline smell out of it. The texture is harsh and inflexible. When cleaning, it is best to dry it under tension least it change into a coiled spring.

Availability: Purty well every large hardware store will have this if you really want some that badly.

SISAL

Positives: Cheap as dirt. Even cheaper if the dirt you are buying is fancy pottery soil. It wont cramp your budget at all to use this for a scene and then cut the ropes away instead of untying it (Insert blade-play fantasy of your choice here). There is a distinct smell that some people might like also

Negatives: Rot and mildew set in quick if this rope is left wet, making cleaning of it a pain. Shedding of fibers is going to continue no matter how long you own this rope and that may make for a messy playspace. Knots jam often meaning you might be forced to cut away the rope even if that wasn't part of the scene. Its got an itchy/tickling sensation that very few people would be into.

Availability: Again, this is in every hardware store. However, they are most likely only going to have it for sale in packages. It wont be available in cut-to-order

COTTON

Positives: This is the only rope that is soft while simultaneously having a high surface tooth for holding knots tight. Cleaning it is as simple and straightforward as cleaning cotton clothing.

Negatives: This stretches somewhat. More importantly it compresses. So a jammed knot is going to be irreversible jammed. It can be rather expensive depending on where you get it and why diameter you can find it in. It is also is one of the few natural fiber ropes that doesn't have a distinctive smell.

Availability: Its easy to find this in small diameters. Larger diameters wont be found in hardware stores, but can be had online at max tool

JUTE

Positives: It handles and holds knots at about the same level as hemp and is slightly cheaper. You also need less maintenance on the rope to keep it in good order. It has a very distinct smell that sometimes has been described as "grandma's attic". It has also been pointed out to me that jute will not show up as looking green on film the way hemp does.

Negatives: Cleaning this is the biggest drawback. I find it to be very prone to any kind of water damage. The texture against the skin isn't the best you can get from a rope.

Availability: Craft and hobby stores will have this in smaller diameters. For the larger diameters necessary for bondage the only source I know of is Numinous but only in limited quantity.

SILK

Positives: Nearly indistinguishable from nylon in my experience. It handles the same. It holds knots the same. The texture against the skin is the same. But it has nearly no stretch to it at all.

Negatives: Everyone knows that cleaning silk is tough. Maintenance is a bit of a pain as I never have found an efficient way to keep the ends from unraveling. This is another natural fiber rope that has no smell.

Availability: Army surplus stores that carry vintage parachute cord is about the only option. Anyone who thinks this can be found in an average hardware store dosnet is an idiot. Multi Filament Polypropylene feels soft so a lot of people assume its silk.

FLAX

Positives: A friend of mine turned me on to this rope within the past year. It is ultra super soft and has excellent handling properties. The knots hold well without jamming. Cleaning is rather straightforward and without complications. Its also rather inexpensive if purchased in bulk.

Negatives: A big big downturn for this rope is that there tends to be small “husks” that are woven into the rope during the manufacturing process. These create a pinprick sensation on the skin from time to time if left in. They are easy enough to get out, if time consuming. Its unique smell somewhat like a freshly cut lawn can be somewhat of a distraction.

Availability: To be had only at Kinky Ropes.


Disclaimer
By no stretch of the imagination am I the end all be all authority on the issue of ropes. If you disagree with my evaluation of any of these materials please post and explain what you think.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2009, 11:11:44 AM by RopeFiend » Logged

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« Reply #36 on: February 19, 2009, 10:15:00 PM »

I think that the best way for me to get REALLY good at tying up guys would be to let you (well you would have a bit of a fight on your hands actually) tie me up so I could see how it was done first hand.  Kiss

I am totally cheating with handcuffs and Velcro restraints! They are quick and easy when I have a fight on my hands but I think it would be incredibly satisfying to still accomplish what I want with rope.

And as far as the Rope Dojo goes, I am about as far away from San Francisco as you can get.
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« Reply #37 on: February 19, 2009, 11:55:02 PM »

There's nothing at all wrong with Velcro or leather buckle cuffs, and I have a couple of pair of handcuffs, myself!  Being a scuba diver, I'd quite enjoy a set of 7mm neoprene cuffs with Velcro; it'd feel just right.  Leather or padded leather is also popular, but it's by no means a requirement for a nice cuff.

For speed restraint, it's hard to beat a pair of Smith & Wesson cuffs!  Plus, the discomfort of a pair of nickel-plated Police handcuffs adds to the appeal.  Evil  Funny thing is, you can get cop-grade cuffs CHEAPER than you can buy some of the junky ones at adult stores!  http://galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=RS034&cat=3023  $16 a pair, versus $25 for the Chinese knock-offs without the double-lock feature.  Of course, you'll rarely find police cuffs in PINK or with leopard fur.  Grin  The furry ones would scare me... they're lots more likely to JAM, which would be hard to explain to your local rescue squad.

On the JAMMING HANDCUFFS note, the Peerless model a few years back had ALL sorts of complaints in the field of jamming.  It's annoying to the police, and exceedingly embarrassing to us.  Although Peerless have since corrected the problem, I'd buy S&W since they've not had that issue (that I know of.)  I'd also be wary of buying Peerless from anything but a first-rate cop shop, as some unscrupulous person might sell you a pair of the older model that jammed more easily.

There's no right or wrong way to do bondage... it's all about what's fun for the both of you!  My response to anyone that cops an attitude about YOUR way of doing it is: "piss off, I'm not waking up next to YOU, you loser!"  Ignore anyone that tells you "You're doing it wrong!" or "that's not how it's supposed to be..."  There's a lot of self-impressed assholes in this world.

Most of the Japanese style is all about art and style.  The Two Knotty Boys is another example of art & style over speed and security.  I go for fast, sloppy and secure, although I'm not averse to spending a half hour doing an intricate tie if I can find the right person to play with.  I'd love to stop by and help, but you're a fair drive from Dallas, and I'm wildly out of practice.  I haven't dated much in a BUNCH of years, and the only single women I'd met at the local events were all half my age or significantly over twice my weight, and I freaked at either option.

I see there's a few big cities within a few hours drive of you... keep an eye out for the regional kink festivals, as I see Midori held a Rope Dojo in Toronto in 2007, and she'll have one in NYC in May 2009.  You don't truly need her class, but it looks like a lot of fun.  The full Rope Dojo is (2) 8 hour days, but she does a lot of shorter 2 hour seminars at various events.  She did an interesting class in SF a few months ago entitled 'Predicament Bondage'.  Evil  Sounds like something I'd enjoy!

-----------------------------

Lemme go into some ropes that TheHungryTiger didn't cover above, as it's important and you shouldn't waste money.

Mountain climbing rope is built with 'kernmantle' construction: a sturdy tightly woven shell wrapped around several stands of twisted nylon or polypro.  The outer shell and inner strand material changes for the specific purpose, but it's immaterial.... even the 'accessory rope' is too stiff for most bondage needs.  It's great for saving your life or spending a weekend doing some technical climbing, but it SUCKS for bondage.  It's also VERY expensive, compared to other ropes.

There's nothing wrong with kernmantle construction, but watch out for the materials.  You don't need abrasion resistance and controlled stretch like mountain climbers do, you need supple so that it plays easily.

Parachute cord (400 or 550 cord) is fun to play with, but it's too small in diameter for most bondage other than tying up fingers or doing CBT.  I use it for camping because I like the abrasion resistance, it holds knots well, and it's sturdy as hell.  It's a looser weave kernmantle construction than climbing rope, although by no means 'soft'.  It's a woven nylon outer sheath over nylon twisted core.  The Type II or 400 cord (400 pounds breaking strength) has 4 inner strands and is 1/8" dia, the Type III 550 cord has 7 inner strands and is 3/16" dia.  Good stuff, but of limited use.  Best place to get it is Para-Gear.com (look under 'raw materials' and then 'suspension line'.)  Beware of the crap sold at most camping stores as 'parachute cord'... it's NOT what we used in skydiving, it's utterly cheezy Chinese shit that will disintegrate on you, and doesn't knot like The Real Thing does.  Even most of it that I've found at 'military surplus' stores wasn't mil-spec 400/550 cord, although it LOOKED like it from the roll.  The way to tell is that one inner strand of authentic mil-spec suspension line will have a multi-color code, telling you which vendor produced it.  I've yet to see that on any of the bogus 'parachute cord'.  Probably 97% of what I've seen in stores was all bogus.

Magician's Rope is almost always cotton, and varies from 4mm to 10mm diameter.  The British version is a hollow weave, the common US version has a loose strand cotton core (and is a little stiffer).  It's a fairly loose weave and may be OK for magic tricks, but it's not ideal for bondage because the knots jam* VERY frequently.  Some folks swear by it, though.

A lot of antique ship's rigging used a multi 3x3 strand rope (3 ropes twisted together, each of them comprising 3 twisted strands.)  The infamous Cat 'o Nine Tails is a jute ship's rope that's been unwoven to the 9 individual strands, and knotted at the ends of each strand for additional sting.  Great fun for a novelty flogger, but generally too stiff for play.

Much of the rope sold at chandlery or marine stores is also wildly expensive.  It's designed to withstand long exposure to UV (sunlight).  I've found some good MFP there, but also found some that's stiffer than climbing ropes, so watch what you're buying.  Play around with it before you go tossing down money.  If they ask, it's for macrame, of course!

I've found some of my best (and worst) ropes at good hardware stores.  Some of it is twisted synthetic, most is braided or kernmantle.  Since I'm not doing suspension, I don't worry about the breaking strength; I'm solely interested in aesthetics and how well it knots and feels on the skin.

-----------------------------

* Jammed knots: sailors use a tool called a marlinspike to dig into a jammed knot and break one or two loops free.  The old marine versions look like a railroad spike 'cos the rope is HUGE, newer versions for smaller diameter rope look like a fat stainless steel needle.  You can also get 'em on some knives, but make sure it has a locking feature!  My preference when doing erotic macrame is a French Fid.  You can see a variety of different marlinspikes on the URL or just Google for images of 'marlinspike'.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2009, 10:40:20 AM by RopeFiend » Logged

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« Reply #38 on: February 25, 2009, 10:26:25 PM »

What I am using mostly right now are real handcuffs (yes the double locking kind) for the initial restraint and then switching to the neoprene with velcro because for the many hours I am using them for, it is much more forgiving than the metal. And less explaining of marks would be required after too.  Wink  I do have some other things I use that are basically nylon with plastic locking clips. So far so good but I am tying up someone who is constantly trying to get away from me (crazy bugger stay still!!) so I have to make sure he is VERY secure at all times.

The ropes  I purchased but have yet to try are all polypropylene (I think - the packaging is gone but that sounds right), they are nice and soft and easy to tie knots in too.  I carry some in my purse because you just never know LOL!!

I'm not concerned with tying 'pretty' knots or anything. I want something that is going to work and if it takes awhile to accomplish because I am not simply snapping on a pair of cuffs, well, I do think that will be pretty hot.  I think it will add to the build up of him knowing he is going to be at my mercy, instead of me basically having him cuffed before he knows what the hell hit him.  So that is my main reason for wanting to learn some of the rope knots.  When I am tired and need to get him restrained in a hurry, well those Velcro/neoprene cuff already attached to the bed are wonderful for that (or the fridge or the shower rod or wherever).  I will check into some of the other rope types after I see how this stuff works for me.

Hmm yes Dallas IS a fair drive LOL. Huge understatement!! Too bad, but I don't see me finding an excuse to get to Dallas. NYC, yes. Vegas, yes.  That seminar in NYC in May could be possible.  Eight hours of learning to tie knots and stuff during the day and 8 hours of putting it into practice at night should make a trip to NYC worth it for sure. Ooh that predicament bondage sound GREAT!!  Not that I can say I am taking off to go to a bondage class.  emot_rotf.gif

Thanks again RopeFiend for all the super information!!
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« Reply #39 on: April 09, 2009, 03:51:14 AM »

I used this thread to create a handout for our munch called "introduction to ropes".   We then discussed the various types of rope that can be used for bondage and the members talked about their preferences and experiences.

I'm going to teach the basic "handcuff" knots at our next gathering.

Thanks RF!  Without you it would not have been possible!
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So much oppression in our culture is based on shame about sex: the oppression of women, of cultural minorities, oppression in the name of the (presumably asexual) family, oppression of sexual minorities. We are all oppressed. We have all been taught, one way or another, that our desires, our bodies, our sexualities, are shameful. What better way to defeat oppression than to get together in communities and celebrate the wonders of sex?
The Ethical Slut: A Guide to Infinite Sexual Possibilities
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« Reply #40 on: April 12, 2009, 03:45:11 PM »

Lemme see what I can put together for you on 'single-limb cuffs'.  Those are specialized knots that aren't covered in the Boy Scout Handbook...  Grin  Funny thing is, the two-limb bondage is almost always some variation of a shear or square lashing, and the Boy Scouts *do* teach both of those.

There's about 10 or 12 different cuff knots I've seen, but you absolutely do NOT need to know 'em all.  Learn one, and use it well.

Now if only I could come up with some sort of good woodcraft excuse for the Foole's Cuff, then I'd be aiding generations of budding childhood perverts (like myself!)  Hmmmm.....
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« Reply #41 on: June 12, 2009, 02:12:21 AM »

I had the opportunity to try out a couple of the rope handcuffs. I found out the hard way that if someone knows you plan on tying them up and they plan on fighting it, that these don't work so well! Sure you can get one wrist through but GOOD LUCK trying to get the second one in!! LOL!

Anyway the old 'restraints hidden under the covers' trick is always available as a back up plan (heehee and restraints tied to the couch and hidden under a towel in the washroom and in the kitchen just in case) so it all worked out. As usual.

Still I would love to be able to pull a rope out of my pocket and be able to tie someone up any time and anywhere I wanted to! Metal handcuffs are too loud and heavy and not all that easy to conceal.

Any thoughts Ropefiend on  what would work on a fighter for next time? Others opinions are welcome too of course.

Oh just as an interesting note - the restraints I have (maybe shouldnt mention brand name) did NOT hold up under extreme stress last time! The metal rings holding the metal clips on are not strong enough if ANY slack is left in the nylon restraint. This is the second time I have had them fail. Broken metal clip one time and stretched out metal ring that allowed the restraint to come off the second time. I bought thick steel replacement parts for next time. So a word of warning I guess that the restraint kits (yes even the good ones) may fail if you have a fighter on your hands. Which I do!!
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« Reply #42 on: June 12, 2009, 04:00:28 AM »

Wow...

If he's fighting back that hard, you're left with a helper (sounds like 'not an option') or some means to force him to comply (empty gun, FAKE knife, threats of Goatse porn, etc).  That or a LOT of time at the gym until you can kick his ass with one hand.  You're in unknown territory for me.  My girlfriend fought back, but DID eventually want to be restrained and let me.  I never had a real battle getting her under control.

Go ahead and say which restraints failed... maybe it'll help someone else.  From the description, it sounds kinda like the SportSheets light-weight stuff.  Those are meant for PLAY restraint, not full-force fighting back.  For that, you need very secure leather or authentic handcuffs.  I've seen leather cuffs that would fail in that situation, so look closely at the construction... some people are real goof balls when it comes to designing cuffs.  The 'pro' institutional grade restraints cost an arm and a leg ... People(Something)  brown leather light trim.

Also, don't cheap out on handcuffs, if he's a fighter; get Smith & Wesson.  The toy cuffs at porn shops are crap and will seize on ya or break.  S&W are $25 a pair for hand, $35 for ankle cuffs.  Get 'em at a real cop shop, not the 'spy headquarters' kind of place that charges list plus 40%.  Dealer List on S&W wrist is about $22USD.

Rope bondage is more for looks and style.  Once someone is SECURELY tied up and the knots are *solid*, they're less likely to get away.  I can usually tease a knot apart if I have any way to get to it, though.  I'm not an escape artist, but you'd be hard pressed to keep me in anything if you aren't standing over me.

I suppose duct tape is an option, if he insists on fighting back.  It'll take hair off, but it serves him for being naughty about it.  Evil
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« Reply #43 on: June 12, 2009, 09:32:28 AM »

For fighters (That's a major part of my rape fantasy, I like my "Victims" to fight hard enough to hurt me) there's a lot of ways to use rope to subdue them.  I assume there's some disparity in size from your posts, so if you're smaller, you have to use leverage, and mechanical advantage.  I use clove hitches on wrists, with stopper knots to prevent rolling out, because I can tye them in one hand, behind my back, with her kicking, and screaming the whole time.

Do Not use a constrictor knot, (A clove hitch with an extra turn) you can lose a hand that way.  Cuffs are faster, but if he's serious about fighting, they can also permanently damage wrists.  The lark's head can't be rolled out of, but isn't as secure, and remember to tye a reverse clove hitch for the other side, it's a directional knot.

In case you're wondering why I seem to use only slippery hitches, or "nooses", it's because I can tye, and untye them quickly, mostly for safety.  They also won't hold anyone forever, so if something goes horribly wrong, they can get out.  Also, with the powergames I usually play, it's nice when she gets an arm free, at random, and socks me hard in the jaw.  Even if something goes a little wrong, I can get us out quick without bringing in shears, or other blades which would make it even more complex, and dangerous.

Anyway, the knots you use depend largely on what chordage you're using.  I like to tye up men with pink ribbons, which are remarcably strong, but don't hold knots the same as rope, flatweb, or whatever.  The ribbons, which can support my 200+#s, also hurt when you fight too much, for pain compliance, but genetrally can't do any damage, unless you unexpectedly load them.

The "Ribbons" talk (Yes, I play Sisters of Mercy, but usually sing along, "he looks good in in Ribbons, flowers on the razor wire!") includes the safety lecture that they are strong enough, and most men are strong enough to dislocate, and break circulation in the wrists.  Generally the pain will stop them from fighting before they do damage, but that also means YOU as the "master" of the scene, have to pay extra attention to how much force you put on them.  If they roll, or wrincle, they don't spread out the force, with him fighting, and you putting on weight, this can do serious damage before he has a chance to scream.

Surprise is also good, and when neccisary, we've role-played drugs.  Use water, and other placebos, I do not suggest BDSM, or RRP any way other than sober, but you can work it out in your wrestling matches that if you can get this wet cloth over hir mouth, or poke them with this colored pencil, or slip this strongly flavored additive in your drink, then count to five, or seven, or whatever the agreed apon time to take effect.  It adds a fun dimention to games after you've jaded each other to the samold.
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« Reply #44 on: June 13, 2009, 01:19:40 PM »

I've never tried one myself, but maybe a stun gun would make him easier to handle until you get him properly subdued...

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